Ted will regularly add tips on tackle and bait, including every day items that can be used for fishing, and save you money.

 If you have a tip you would like to share with other anglers, email it to, mailto:mail@tedtuckerman.com  we will credit it with your name.

Which lines are best. Ted explains at end of this page

Rocket Cocktail Bait.  Sandeel and ragworm. A top bait for small eyed ray, dogfish and bass. This bait is claimed to be a match winner.  To bait the hook, cut a sandeel as a flapper bait, one of average size is about right; Slip the hook down through the mouth and slid it up the trace; thread on the ragworm to above the eye of the hook, now slide the eel down to the rag and lay the flappers each side of the rag and tie with bait elastic.  Hook size according to fish caught, 2/0 or 3/0 suggested.

Add some spice to your lure.   When using jellies or eels  slip on an luminous bead ahead of the lure and fix with power gum stop knot; two can be used but not normally necessary, experiment with bead size to find which suits your area best.

Weak Link  Another weak link attachment, might be easier than the one you use now.   Take piece of 16 or 18 gauge stainless steel wire not more than two inches long.  With long nose pliers form a closed ring one end, make sure it is closed tight; with the pliers bend up the last quarter of an inch or so of the other end to make a hook at about 45/50 degree angle. Tie a short length of nylon to the ring that is also attached to the rig, the other end of the nylon, it should be about 50% BS of the main line, tie to the weight.  When cast, and it hits the water the weight  drops off the clip and you are fishing with a weak link. 

Peeler Crab Bait  When preparing a peeler crab for bait for flat fish, remove the lungs, those "finger" along each side of the body.  It does appear to improve the catch rate, why I do not know, because a dead crab found by a flounder or flat fish in the water will be intact.

Ground bait from the shore.    When fishing a rock mark, getting ground bait down to attract fish does  improve the catch rate.  One method is to push minced fish into crevices of the rock at low tide, if you can keep it frozen, it will take longer to disperse.

Protecting alloy spools.   Washing reels after each fishing trip is a good idea, but not 100% effective for protection.  To help preserve the spool, when it is new, and before loading the line, coat the spool with several coats of quality car polish. make sure it is dry and set before loading the line.

This tip from the USA

Ted --Thanks for many great tips, including some unusual ones.  

Re metal ferrules, your use of "nose grease" has always been a standard.  In addition, I was once a field tester for the company that made many metal-ferrule rods until they lost fashion.  At that plant, everyone carried a stick of paraffin, which they had determined to be the best possible lubricant for metal ferrules.  I still make and use lots of metal-ferrule rods, and my experience with paraffin continues to be excellent.

When a ferrule shows much use of the paraffin, I clean with alcohol and reapply.  I have never lost a ferrule to corrosion or usage.

Clay Johnson, USA


Cheap Box for Lures.  An angler I met while fishing gave me this tip for carrying small lures.  Use old video boxes or buy a new one, they cost less than a £1.  Cut a piece of sticky back Ethafoam, obtainable from your tackle shop, cut it to the size of the box and press it firmly into place, do both sides.  Small lures can then be attached by sticking the hook into the foam.  When you open, choosing the right lure is easy.

Changing Line on a reel, end to end.  Reversing line on a reel  involves the use of three reels, and they are not all ways conveniently empty, but there is a simpler method,  do it from the boat while steaming.  Tie the end of the line firmly to a cleat or similar on one side of the stern, leaving about ten feet of loose end, you will need this to thread through the eyes.  Stand on the other side of the boat, pull line from the reel so there is a loop between rod tip and tied end, dip the rod let the loop catch the water and the line will pull from the reel;  the pressure will keep the loop open; when it reaches the end, cut and let it go.  Before untying the front end from the cleat, thread the loose end through the rod eyes and tie firmly to the reel.  Untie, and reel in the line. Do this in open water, not where there are mooring or pot buoys.

Threading a Boom.   Have you become frustrated trying to thread braid through a boom?  Try pushing the end into the tube as far as it will go, and then sucking it through from the other end; make sure there is sufficient slack in the braid to do it; will also work when line is stuck in the tube of a float.

Cuttle Fish   Cuttle have suddenly become the flavour of the month, but it does work for, conger, cod, pollack, ling and bass.  One method, take out the " white backbone", do not give it to your pet birds, it is too salty unless you boil out the salt first. Big hooks are need, 8/0 and above, thread on, and then firmly tie with elasticized cotton, messy but worth it.

Beads for Flounder  Beads slipped on above the hook when flounder fishing does improve the catch rate.  Colour is a matter of choice, mine is red and yellow, others prefer green, white and black. Whatever combination used, they work.

Weight Break Away  A simple method for attaching a weight for fishing over rocks for an easy break out is to use a paper clip, they easily straighten out.

Uptiding   When fishing with a long trace, hang the hook off one of the weight spikes, it will fall off on contact with the water.

Rotten Bottom.  Ways to save gear over rocks are many.  One I saw used recently on a wreck trip was good and simple.  The weight was tied to a sliding swivel by a length of thin garden wire, the flat variety. It seemed to work well. Use just a few turns and it could pull undone, or leave a few inches dangling so it can be broken seemed to be the methods  in use.

Tangled Traces.   We all suffer from tangled traces from time to time, even when they are in a small packet they still come out tangled.  One way to aleviate this is to use either kitchen roll or toilet roll tubes. Push the point of the hook in to the card board and wind the trace around it, pushing the point of each hook into the board, it should not affect the point, but if it does a few swipes with a hook sharpener puts the point bavck. The one done side, it is bulky, but in a large tackle box it is not a problem.

Catch a Bonus Fish.  If you are in a competition where different species count, or fishing a specimen fish match, garfish can give you the edge. When one rod only can be used, tie up a short trace on a clip, bait, then slip the clip onto your line, making sure it is tight between the rod tip and the weight, the baited hook  will slowly slide down the line.  If it misses out on a garfish, it might catch a big mackerel as it nears the bottom. This works best from a boat, but will work from shore when conditions allow, but you might need a small weight to help it on its way.

Straightening Grapnel Flukes    Grapnel flukes straighten when caught in rocks, to easily bend back to shape, carry a length of iron pipe on board. Slipped over the fluke, little effort is needed to bend to correct shape, and prevents damage to deck when the fluke is pushed down on to the deck to get it back to shape.

Long Trace Up Tide Casting   Lengthen a trace when up  tiding and there is not a clip on the rig to shorten it for casting, all that is needed is to hang the baited hook from one of the weight wires, providing you do not cast to hard it will stay put.

Bait for conger.   When I am boat fishing for conger I frequently use the head and backbone of a filleted mackerel discarded by other anglers, providing it still has the guts in it.  I pass the hook up through the head, and cut off the tail to prevent it spinning as it is falling the bottom.  The scent and trail of blood is a great attracter to the feeding conger eel.  . 

Hermit Crab as Bait  How to remove a hermit crab from its shell without smashing it with a hammer can be frustrating.  Try this tip.  Hold the shell with the crab hanging downward, then tap the shell will a hard object, for example the back of your bait knife.  The crab should slide out quickly.

Keep Fish Fresh.  When temperatures soar, keeping fish for eating or weighing fresh on a boat becomes a problem.  Try this, it will keep fish fresher and helps to retain their colour.  Part fill a freezer box with ice and add enough salt water to make a soupy mix. Salt water has a lower freezing point than freshwater, and will remain colder longer. They are excellent bait fro many fish including smoothhound, plaice and ray.

Losing Baits.  Fishing in rivers can see expensive peeler crab bait grabbed by the cannibal crabs as soon as it hits bottom.  Instead of floating the baits high off the bottom which can take the bait away from the flounder, tie it on with elasticized cotton.  It is not fool proof, but it does keep the bait intact for longer.  Adding a crab leg or two will also keep the main bait  up the shank of the hook while casting; and as crab do not seem to relish legs as much as crab body, there will be bait on the hook for longer.   

Easy "Rotten" Bottom

A simple method for attaching a weight for fishing over rocks or wreck for an easy break out is to use a paper clip, they easily straighten out.

Is it a peeler crab?

An easy method for telling whether a crab is a peeler is to take hold of the last joint of the small back leg, squeeze gently,  twist, and gently pull.  If the shell comes away easily it is a peeler.  Before peeling a crab, kill it by pushing the point of your knife through the shell on the underside, at the point of the triangular flap, “the money box”.  For better results, endeavor to remove all the shell, and take out the lungs, although I am not convinced this is necessary.

Attaching a plug to a trace

Plugs work more effectively over a wreck or reef if attached with a loop rather than a tight knot.  To tie:  About two inches from the end of the trace make an overhand knot, pass the tag end through the attachment ring of the lure, next pass the tag end up through the overhand knot and make two turns around the standing line, and pass the tag end under the turns. Holding the tag end and the main line, moisten, and gently tighten, the two will snug together forming a secure knot.  Trim off the tag end close to the knot.

 Ultra Violet Damages Nylon Line   Ultra violet rays damage nylon line, it breaks down the molecular structure of monofilament line if exposed over a long period, even when fishing. This weakens the line on a reel, so it should be changed at least once a year. Remember ultra violet is present and can still affect the line when it is hazy.  It can also cause sunburn, and is the cause of skin cancer. Do not store reels or spools of line where it is exposed to strong sunlight. Ultra violet rays are not the only cause of line damage, abrasive sand and shark rocks are others.    

Baiting for sole.    Sole it is said, pull lugworm out of the seabed.  This means they are taking them by the tail, and not the head, so thread the worm on the hook head first instead of tail first.

Gathering razor fish.  Most beds only uncover on the lowest springs tides.  Digging and using spears can be used  to gather them, but an easier method is to put salt in the holes.  Make up a strong solution of salt and water and put it into a detergent bottle.  To use, walk backwards slowly over the razor fish beds, stamping your feet down hard at each step, depressions about two inches across will appear between your feet caused by the razor fish as it retreats deeper into the sand, they move a great speed.  Squirt some salt solution into the hole, don’t wait, move on.  Shortly you will see the razor fish pop up.  All you have to do now is walk back and gently pull them out of the sand.

Launce Flapper    Mackerel flapper is a recognized  bait.  When fishing launce use that as a flapper bait.  It is fished the opposite way to a mackerel flapper, tail first. To prepare, cut off the head and fillet out the backbone, leaving about one inch at the tail end.  To hook, pass the hook point through the bone at the tail.

Making a Grapnel for fishing over rocks.

Pennel Rig. Make the rig without the need to tie knots. Required, two long shank hooks, size according to fish you hope to catch, small diameter silicon tubing. Cut a two inch length of silicon, thread trace nylon through it, and then through the eye of one of the hooks. Next work the tubing over the eye of the hook and down the shank. The tube must be a tight fit to hold the hook in place. Tie the end of the nylon to the eye of the other hook. And that’s it. When baiting, it is best to bait both hooks, pass the point of the top hook through the top of the bait on the lower hook and gently pull tight. Fish are often hooked on the top hook only, so do not be tempted to use a smaller hook.

If using a large bait such as whole squid or mackerel fillets, the top hook can be threaded into the bait, and then gently pulled tight.

Pennel Rig. Mark 2Tying pennel rigs can be confusing with many different ways to achieve the same aim. Here is a simple method. Take two hooks of the size to suit the fish being targeted. A length of either nylon or wire, your choice, about twelve inches in length. Tie one end to the eye of one hook, now do the same with the other, either with a loop so the hook will move,   or tight to one side of the hook eye. This hook will hang along the nylon/wire. The distance between the hooks should now be about five or six inches. Less for small baits. The trace line is tied to the eye of the second hook. Bait in the normal way.    Very effective with small whole fish or calamari and when wire is being used.   I have used it with great effect in South Africa when fishing with pilchard. 

Plaice Spoon. Excellent flounder or plaice spoons can be made from old table spoons. First cut off the handle as close to the bowl as possible and file smooth. Next drill a small hole in the wide end. You will need a clevis, they are U shaped with a hole in each flat end. If you do not have one, use a thin wire and twist a loop on each end. Push one end through the hole in the spoon, and then pass a short length of wire through both holes on the clevis, wire used for making weights is ideal. The spoon will now revolve. A bead should be added to the wire either side of the clevis. Twist an eye at the top, and on the other end fix a small swivel by twisting an eye in the wire. An added feature is to slip a piece of coloured silicone tubing on the wire before forming the bottom loop. The wire should now be about three quarters the length of the spoon. Tie on about six inches of 10lb BS nylon, slip on four or five red and or yellow beads, and end with a hook size 1 or 1/0, 2/0 if plaice are big in your area. When complete the hook should be about two inches from the spoon, this is not critical.

Rubby Dubby. Creating a slick of rubby dubby close to a bait is not always easy. Try this method. Take a film cassette, punch lines of holes in it, also in the lid and bottom, including one in the centre of the lid and the base. Pass a piece of wire through both of these and, burr the end at the base, or use a button to fix. Leave a stem at the top of about two inches to enable the lid to be lifted for filling, and form a loop in the wire. Alternatively a length of heavy nylon can be used. Fill with mashed mackerel or any suitable attractor, close the lid and attach to the rig where convenient with a clip. The scent trail will now be close to the bait. Will work when legering from a boat for ray and flat fish. Refill every drop.

Rigs. The colour of the nylon to tie a rig can, an often does influence the catch. The three colours I use most are white (or clear), blue and dull green. There is no guarantee that sticking with these colours will increase your catch rate, but I have on more occasions than I care to count, when bites are slow, changed to another colour rig, and the catch has improved. Was it a coincidence? I am not sure, like many things, in life, it works, and there seems to be no logical reason. Another tip worth a try when bites are few and far between, change the hook pattern, usually to a lighter model.

Elastic cotton holder. Do you get tangles with your cotton or have difficulty tying on bait in the dark? There is a simple answer with the use of a film cassette.

Take a 35mm film cassette, about half way down bore a small hole, a bradawl will make the right size. Take a spool of elasticized cotton, the Ghost Cocoon  is best, unwind a few inches and drop into the cassette. Put it to your lips and blow, the end of the cotton miraculously appears through the hole. Drop in the spool of cotton, and replace the lid. No more tangles, just wind the thread on as required. Ghost  Cocoon can be bought in a holder or loose, using a film cassette makes it easier to hold with wet cold hands.

Breaking Tackle out of Obstruction  Snagging tackle on an obstruction is an everyday occurrence when fishing rough ground, and breaking heavy tackle free is never easy whether at anchor or on the drift. Try this simple method. Get a wooden dowel rod, at least 1 to 1½ inches in diameter, and about eighteen inches long. In one end cut a slot about half an inch deep. To use, put the line into the slot, and twist the rod, winding the line on to it, with both hands holding the rod you will be able to break the line if at anchor, or hold as the boat drifts until it breaks.

Boat Rod Rest. Stopping rods sliding along gunwales is a problem. A simple rest can be made from uPVC guttering. Materials required, a twelve inch length of guttering, two gutter brackets and two bolts and two rod rest heads and foam or polystyrene. To assemble, fix the brackets inside the guttering using small nuts and bolts or self tapping screws. About three inches in from each end drill a hole the size of the threaded end of the rod rest heads. Pass the ends through the holes from the top, and fix with nuts. To protect the gunwale a piece of foam or polystyrene can be used to cover the bolts. To use, push on to the gunwale wherever you want it. It is easy to move and can also be used on sloping gunwales.

Mussel Bait. Excellent for dabs and plaice, but difficult to keep on the hook. One way is to put it into a "stocking". To make up, you will need some tubey grip, it is used for injured fingers, and can be bought from a chemist, and a four or five inch piece of plastic piping of 1 inch diameter and a wooden dowel.

Shell or skein out the mussel. Take the tube and thread the Tubey grip over one end, push it well on, and from the other end fill with mussel, push into the tubey grip using the dowel, repeat until all the mussel is in the net. It should now look like a long sausage. To use, cut off the length you need to bait the hook with sharp scissors, and thread on the hook.

Which Line… Nylon or Braid?

Walk into a tackle shop and you are confronted with a vast array of fishing line in a myriad of colours, monofilament and braid. Trying to sort out which line to buy, nylon or braid is difficult for the expert, and even more so when you are just taking up fishing.  Claims by the manufacturers that their line is the best, either stronger, thinner, invisible, has better bite detection and so on, all adds to the confusion.  So which is best, braid or nylon?

Fishing line is an on going evolution; new lines come on to the market all the time.

In the early part of the last century it was Cuttyhunk, a linen line that took its name from the Town in the USA where it was made.  It suited the large wooden centre pin reels in use at that time.  It was thick and needed to be washed after every trip, and run off the reel to dry.

This went out of fashion around 1950 when Luron, a white stiff gut line arrived from the USA.  It was better than Cuttyhunk, and cast from multiplier reels, Ocean City and Penn’s that had just hit our shores from the USA.  Over the next year or so, Monofilament (nylon) line came on to the market, each new line an improvement on the previous line, but they all suffered from stretch. Terylene Sea Ranger was the first of the “braid” lines in back in the 1970’s, which was hailed as the anglers saviour, it was so much better than nylon; it would show all the bites. It had one big fault, it caught the tide, and large weights were needed.

As wreck fishing developed, so wire line arrived, it certainly cut the tide, and allowed for smaller weights.  This made fishing on big tides easier, but wire also had a down side, it cut into rod rings,  and rollers had to be used,  and it also damaged the fingers, especially the braided, broken strands of multiple strand wire. That saw the end of wire lines.

Today there is a wide choice of monofilament lines available in a multitude of colours, each claiming to be better than the others. Most of these are very good, and choice is down to individual taste and money.  Which colour causes newcomers to the sport, and many old hands problems, especially with the brightly coloured lines.  I have used yellow, orange and red, and as far as I could tell it did not make a difference. Coloured lines come into their own when trolling, it makes seeing where the line is so much easier, and helps prevent tangles.

The new line on the block is braid.  Made of space age material, it has more strength from a small diameter, and is more sensitive. Depending on the manufacturer it can be made from Kevelar, Spectra or MicroDynema, or some other scientific name that means very little to us mortals. They are smaller in diameter, almost a third of the equivalent BS of nylon line, and without the stretch. Braid cuts the water like a wire line without the problems, and weights needed to hold bottom can be up to 50% lighter. The line is ultra sensitive, the smallest of bites can be felt, and you can feel every movement of the weight on the seabed, a bonus when fishing over snaggy ground, it helps prevent loss of tackle, but not alleviating losses altogether.

When fishing with braid you need to change your fishing style, playing a fish needs to be more delicate and the reel clutch set lighter.  Without stretch in the line, the pull on the rod tip seems quite vicious, but after a few fish have been caught, you adapt, and for me, and many anglers, braid is a pleasure to fish with.  A downside is when tangled with a nylon line; braid is so thin it is difficult to unravel. If you miss the stretch of nylon lines, tie on a ten foot shock leader of the same breaking strain.

So which is best.   There is not a simple answer, they are both good, and have a place in the tackle box. In many situations braid is best, especially in deep water on a spring tide, then braid is definitely king. I use braid for bass fishing over rocks and sand banks in deep water, it has improved my catch rate, and helps me avoid getting snagged, I also use it when drifting the Skerries for plaice on the big tides. Braid is being used more and more boat anglers are now using it, even shore anglers use it. A lot of anglers now have reels loaded with nylon and braid, affordable now the price of braid has fallen. Remember no one line is best for all circumstances.